When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.
This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the owners completely shocked.
“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.
In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.
It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.
The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.
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